Sunday, September 20, 2015

Walnut Leek Pork Loin Roulade Farci with Beurre Maitre D' Hotel








     A Stuffed Pork Loin Roast With Eye Appeal! 
     Roulade style of meat fabrication have its origins in classic French cuisine.  Roulade presentations of items like veal breast, chicken breast or flank steak were at a peak in popularity back in the 1980's and 1990's.  
     When the Fusion Cuisine trend took over many chefs abandoned classic French food preparation methods that bordered upon being comfort food.  This is unfortunate, because classic French comfort food is always in demand, especially when times are tough.  During the last 15 years there has been plenty of turmoil and disparity to go around.  Chefs that switched their fine dining restaurant venue to a gourmet comfort food theme faired well during the worst of economic times.  
     Making ordinary modest food items look and taste fancy is part of what gourmet comfort food is all about.  If one cannot afford veal breast, then select another cut of meat that will be suitable. Making a veal breast roulade farci (stuffed veal breast) is fairly easy to do, but it might take a little more ingenuity to create a similar roulade with something like a pork loin roast that has the rib bones attached.  This is where learning and practicing meat fabrication knife skills comes in handy.  
     Basically, the rules of meat fabrication are to minimize waste and improve eye appeal while maintaining quality and consistency.  Cutting a steak or deboning a raw chicken are good basic meat fabrication skills to learn first.  Making fancy roulades, galantines, ballotines and terrines requires learning some traditional French cuisine meat fabrication guidelines.  
     The more a cook learns about meat fabrication and the more practice a home cook gets, the better the end result will be.  One should never be discouraged if a first attempt at making a roulade does not look picture perfect.  It is better to figure out where the mistakes were made, then make the corrections on the next attempt.  
    When a pork loin roast section or veal rack roast section is prepared as a roulade farci, more of the flavor of the stuffing thoroughly infuses with the meat, because there is more contact area.  The stuffing also keeps the meat tender and moist.
     I have sold stuffed pork loin entrées that are similar to today's recipe in French cafés for both lunch and dinner.  Customers like the way this entrée looks.  Usually one stuffed chop is enough for a lunch portion or a petite dinner portion.  At formal fine dining restaurants, pork and chicken are rarely offered on the menu.  Boneless veal loin replaces whole pork loin roast for roulade farci recipes.  
     A stuffed pork loin roast roulade can be served with a wide variety of sauces.  It is all too easy to decide on a flavored velouté or demi glace of some kind.  Heavy sauces with a heavy entrée are good during chilly weather, but what about the rest of the year?  A light lemony butter sauce gives a heavy stuffed pork entrée a lighter feel on the palate.  
     Maitre D' Hotel Butter is lemony and full of flavor.  This compound butter compliments the favor of the walnut, leek and herb stuffed pork.  Compound butters do not only have to be applied as a chilled butter dollop that is placed on top of a hot roasted piece of meat, so it slowly melts when it is served.  A compound butter, like Maitre D' Butter, can be gently melted in a small pot and applied like a thin sauce.      

     Beurre Maitre D' Hotel:
     This recipe yields about 6 or 7 portions of compound butter.  (About 1 1/2 tablespoons apiece.)
     Any extra compound butter portions can be chilled or frozen for later use.  
     A chilled portion of maitre d' hotel butter can be placed on a steak or roasted meat of any kind, then it slowly melts.  Compound butter can also be whisked with a small amount of liquid while being warmed to make a thin butter sauce.
     Plugra Butter is a rich tasting European style butter that contains very little excess moisture.  If none is available, use standard unsalted butter instead.
     Step 1:  Cut 4 ounces of chilled unsalted Plugra Butter (or regular unsalted butter) into small chunks.
     Place the butter pieces in a small cake mixer with a paddle attachment or food processor.
     Step 2:  Add 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons of minced parsley.
     Add 1 1/2 teaspoons of fresh lemon juice.
     Add 2 to 3 pinches of fine ground sea salt and black pepper.
     Step 3:  Whip and blend the butter till it softens and aerates.  The butter mixture will look pale white with stiff peaks.
     Step 4:  Place the Maitre D' Butter in a small pastry bag with a star tip.
     Place a piece of parchment paper on a sheet pan.
     Use the pastry bag to pipe small conical shaped portions that are about 1 1/2 tablespoons in volume.  
     Step 5:  Chill the Maitre D' Butter portions in a refrigerator till they are solid.  
     Store the portions in a container in the fridge or freeze them for later use.  

     Walnut, Leek and Herb Stuffing:
     This recipe yields enough stuffing for a 2 bone pork loin roast.  (2 sliced finished roast chops)
     Step 1:  Heat a sauté pan over medium low/low heat.  
     Add 2 tablespoons of unsalted butter.
     Add 1/4 cup of small chopped leek.
     Add 1/4 cup of finely chopped white onion.
     Add 1 minced garlic clove.
     Gently sauté and sweat the leek mixture, till the onions and leeks are translucent and tender.
     Step 2:  Place the contents of the sauté pan in a mixing bowl.  (The butter too!)
     Add 1/3 cup of finely chopped walnuts.
     Add 1/2 cup of fine plain bread crumbs.
     Add 2 tablespoons of minced Italian Parsley.
     Add 2 pinches of thyme.
     Add 2 pinches of basil.
     Add 2 pinches of marjoram.
     Add 1 pinch of oregano.
     Add 1 pinch of ground sage.
     Add sea salt and black pepper to taste.
     Step 3:  Add 1 tablespoon of whisked egg while stirring.
     Step 4:  Add just enough chicken broth to wet the mixture, so it is moist enough to retain its shape when squeezed.  (About 4 to 6 tablespoons.)
     Step 5:  Mix the ingredients together. 
     Chill the stuffing till it is needed. 
  
     Two Rib Bone Pork Loin Section Fabrication For Roulade:
     A 2 rib bone pork loin roast is good for 1 or 2 portions.  A boning knife is the best for this style of meat fabrication. 
     Step 1:  Select a small meaty Pork Loin Roast section that has 2 bones attached. 
     Step 2:  If a fat cap covers the pork loin section, trim the fat cap so only a thin layer a fat cap covers the pork loin section.  (About 1/8" is plenty of fat cap.)
     Step 3:  French the rib bones, so the bones are clean and bare.
     Step 4:  On the bottom of the roast, sometimes there will be thin blade shaped pieces of back bone that are still attached to the rib bones.  Trim off the thin back bone pieces and cartilage.
     Step 5:  Turn the roast upside down, so the rib bones are pointed at the cutting board. 
     The first cut should start at the bottom of the roast away from the bones, near the curved edge.  Cut a 3/8" thick flap from the start of the curve on the bottom of the roast, all the way around the roast to where the meat is attached to the rib bones on the top of the roast.
     Step 6:  Turn the roast so the bones are facing up.
     Lay the flap of meat that was just cut over the rib bones, so it is out of the way.
     Step 7:  The round shaped eye of the loin that is attached to the bone is the next part that is layer cut.
     Start the flap cut where the eye of the loin is attached to the bone.  (Do not cut the meat free from the bone!  Leave the meat attached to the bone.)  Cut a 3/8" thick flap, by rolling the eye of the loin outward.
     Step 8:  The roast should now look like two rectangle shaped flat flaps of meat, that are attached to the 2 rib bones.

     Applying The Stuffing:
     Step 1:  Spread a 3/8" thick even layer of the walnut leek stuffing on top of the second layer of pork loin meat that was cut.  (The inner eye of loin flap.)
     Roll the meat toward the bone, so it forms a coiled roulade shape.
     Step 2:  Spread a 3/8" thick layer of the walnut leek on the inner side of the other pork loin meat flap.
     Wrap the outer layer pork loin meat flap, around the stuffed eye of the loin.
     Step 3:  Gently press the stuffed pork loin, so no loose spaces can be seen and so the stuffed coiled roast holds its shape.
     Use butcher's twine to truss the roast, so it hold its shape. 

     Walnut Leek Pork Loin Roulade Farci:
     Step 1:  Place the trussed two rib stuffed pork loin roast on a lightly oiled roasting pan.
     Brush the roast with melted unsalted butter.
     Lightly season the roast with sea salt and black pepper.
     Wrap the bones with aluminum foil.  (The foil will keep the bones from burning!)
     Step 2:  Slowly roast the stuffed pork loin in a 325ºF oven.
     Baste the roast occasionally with melted unsalted butter.
     Step 3:  When the roast is about 3/4's fully cooked, remove the protective aluminum foil from the bones.  Allow the bones to lightly brown while the stuffed pork finishes roasting.
     The stuffed pork roast is fully cooked when the center temperature reaches 165ºF for 15 seconds.  
     Step 4:  Allow the roast to cool and rest for 3 to 4 minutes, before removing the trussing twine.
    
     Maitre D' Hotel Butter Sauce:
     This recipe yields enough for a two rib stuffed pork loin roast. 
     This simple sauce should be made shortly before the pork roast is served.
     Turning compound butter into a thin emulsion sauce is as easy as whisking butter with a small amount of liquid in a warm pan.  Do not overheat the butter sauce or the emulsion will break!
     Step 1:  Chop 2 to 3 portions of the chilled Maitre D' Hotel Butter into bean size nuggets and chill them in a refrigerator.
     Step 2:  Heat a small sauce pot over very low heat.
     Add 1 tablespoon of water.
     Step 3:  Add a few pieces of the chilled Maitre D' Hotel Butter at a time, while constantly whisking, till a thin butter sauce forms.  The butter sauce should look almost like a beurre blanc.
     Step 4:  Immediately remove the pot from the heat.
     Keep the butter sauce warm on a stove top and stir occasionally.

     Walnut Leek Pork Loin Farci with Beurre Maitre D' Hotel:
     Parsley sprigs as a garnish may seem antique to some chefs.  Useless inedible garnishes that are not integral really do not belong on plates by fine dining standards, but parsley actually is useful and medicinally integral!  Parsley is a natural breath freshener and it aids digestion when eating a meat rich diet.  Parsley helps prevent gout symptoms.  
     Parsley is not a useless inedible garnish by any means and it does look good on a plate.  Especially Italian Parsley!  
     Cut the Walnut Leek and Herb Stuffed Pork Loin Roast in half between the bones.
     Place the two halves of Walnut Leek Pork Loin Roast Farci on a serving platter.
     Spoon the Maitre D' Hotel Butter Sauce on the platter around the stuffed pork loin roast.
     Garnish with sprigs of Italian Parsley.

     This is a very nice recipe for the fall season!

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