Saturday, March 28, 2015

Saumon Croquette avec sauce maltaise et fraise








     A Continuation Of The Previous Recipe!
     When the tomato shipping problem occurred in Mexico a few years ago, prices shot up over $1 per pound.  Of course after the tomato shortage was resolved, grocer did not lower the price till 2 years later.  That is just an example of corporate grocery store chain price gouging as usual.  
     Blood oranges are usually pricy specialty items.  When I saw that blood oranges were selling for half the price of tomatoes, I thought it was a good bargain.  
     It has been a long time since I have used blood oranges in a kitchen.  One of the best classic French blood orange recipes is Sauce Maltaise.  Sauce Maltaise is hollandaise combined with a blood orange reduction.  Sauce maltaise is perfect for lighter meats like fish, chicken, frog legs and shellfish.  I used to make Sauce Maltaise for fish entrées back in the 1990's and customers liked the sauce.
     The previous published recipe yields enough volume of the required components to make this croquette recipe too.  Those who have a craving for salmon mousseline are in luck!   
     • Salmon Mousseline
     • Blood Orange Reduction
     • Modified Classic Hollandaise 
     • Sauce Maltaise
     Follow this link to these recipes.  All four of these recipes are on the same page, which was published previous to this croquette recipe.   

     Saumon Croqutte aux Sauce Maltaise et Fraise:
     Step 1:  Place about 3 1/2 ounces of the chilled thick salmon mousseline on a cutting board.  
     Press the mousseline into a petite oval patty shape that is about 3/8" thick.
     Dredge the petite mousseline patty in fine plain French bread crumbs. 
     Step 2:  Heat a small sauté pan or cast iron skillet over medium heat.
     Add 1 ounce of clarified butter.
     Add enough vegetable oil, so the oil is 1/4" deep. 
     Adjust the temperature, so the oil is 350ºF.
     Step 3:  Pan fry the croquette, till it is crispy golden brown on both sides.  (Only flip it once!)
     Step 4:  Place the croquette on a wire screen roasting rack over a drip pan to drain off any excess oil.

     Presentation:
     Spoon 2 1/2 ounces of the sauce maltaise on a small appetizer plate as a bed for the croquette.
     Place the salmon croquette on the sauce.
     Place 3 thin slices of strawberry on the sauce close to the croquette to create a nice looking design.  
     Drizzle any extra blood orange reduction over the croquette.  (optional)
     Garnish with small curly leaf parsley sprigs. 

     Strawberry accents the flavor of blood orange hollandaise in a nice way.  This is a nice tasting appetizer!  

Petite Roulades of Sole Filet and Salmon Mousseline with Sauce Maltaise










     Delicate Tasting Fish Roulades With Blood Orange Hollandaise!  
     Formal French food presentations feature only the entrée on a plate and the vegetables are offered by a table service waiter from a separate platter.  The exception is formal French café style food presentations.  Formal French café food presentations are done the same way as American fine dining food presentations.  Formal American food presentations involve arranging the entrée and vegetables on a plate in the kitchen before the plate is carried to the table.   
      Today's recipe is presented formal French café style.  Arranging the odd shaped components of today's recipe does require a little bit of artistic skill and common sense.  The protein is always placed on the center of a plate or closest to the customer.  After deciding where to place the protein, the rest falls in place.  
     Stacking items on the center of a plate is okay, but in the end everything gets mashed up together by a customer, just like mixing corn and mashed potatoes together at a cafeteria.  Stacks end up being a mess.  Most classic French food presentations are not stacked.  A plating strategy that has a sense of order is preferred instead.  
     A bit of thought goes into classic food plating and the goal is always to create tasteful eye appeal.  Angling long thin items creates an illusion of depth.  Arranging large pieces close to the center half of the plate with each smaller piece line up in descending order creates an illusion of cascading depth.  A dark shade, like the top of roasted Pommes Anna, creates a dark backdrop effect, which in turn creates depth.  A row of dandelion greens adds a contrasting earth tone that helps to define bright colors of the orange, carrots and sauce.  Using a channeling tool to create cog wheel edge blood orange slices adds a touch of refined complexity.  Cascading a little bit of sauce in one direction on each roulade create a hint of flow.  Add it all up and this café style plating job has a modern look that inspires customer interest.  

      Chefs design plate presentations on paper, before cooking the meal.  Plate design plans on paper are required for banquet event plate assembly and for maintaining consistency.  
     As a chef, I do not always draw a plate design on paper before creating a presentation, because in this modern age there is an alternative method.  Sometimes having no preconceived notion and just letting creativity flow is a good approach.  After the food is plated and the design is deemed as being tasteful, a digital photograph is taken and the photo is then used as a food presentation model, so consistency is achieved.  Consistency is the name of the game in fine dining, especially when plating food for formal dinner party banquets.

     Salmon Mousseline:
     This recipe yields enough thick spreadable salmon mousseline for 3 to 4 petite sole roulades, plus one 4 1/2 ounce croquette.  Save any extra mousseline after making the roulades for the croquette recipe that will be published next!
     Salmon Mousseline can be made thick for spreading on items like fish roulades or it can be made thin for for a gelled light custard effect.   
     Step 1:  Place 8 ounces of chopped raw salmon filet or cleaned salmon scraps in a food processor.
     Add 2 teaspoons of minced onion.
     Add 1 pinch of nutmeg.
     Add 1 pinch of sea salt and white pepper.
     Add 1 tablespoon of egg white.
     Add 1 1/2 ounces of cream.
     Step 2:  Pulse the food processor till the mixture becomes a fine smooth pureed paste.
     *The mousseline  has to be thick enough to stand tall in a spoon for the roulade recipe.  If the mousseline is not thick enough, Add 1 or 3 teaspoons of flour, while pulsing the food processor.  The mousseline should be able to hold its shape, but it should not be too dense.  Keep in mind that the mousseline will become stiffer after it is chilled!
     Step 3:  Place the mousseline into a container.
     Chill the salmon mousseline to 41ºF.

     Petite Roulades of Sole and Salmon Mousseline Preparation:
     Not every species of sole is sustainable.  Check the sustainability status before purchasing sole of any kind. 
     Step 1:  Select 1 or 2 sole filets that are about 1/4" thick at the most.  (Thick filets can be butterfly cut.)
     Step 2:  Cut 3 sole filet strips that are 1 1/4" wide and about 4 1/2" in length.
     Step 3:  Lay the 3 sole strips flat on a cutting board.
     Spread a 3/16" thick layer of the salmon mousseline on each sole strip.
     Step 4:  Roll each filet into a roulade shape.
     Use butcher's twine to truss each roulade, so it retains its shape.
     Step 5:  Chill the roulades till they are needed later in the recipe.

     Blood Orange Reduction:
     Step 1:  Peel 1 Blood Orange.
     Remove any excess pith.
     Cut the blood orange into thin slices.
     Remove any seeds.
     Step 2:  Place the blood orange slices in a small stainless steel sauce pot.
     Add 1/2 teaspoon of sugar. 
     Add 2 cups of water.
     Place the pot over low heat.
     Gently simmer the blood orange, till it becomes tender.
     Step 3:  Mash the blood orange in the pot.
     Step 4:  Raise the temperature to medium low heat.
     Simmer and reduce till 1/2 cup of liquid remains.
     Step 5:  Pour the blood orange liquid through a fine mesh strainer into a second sauce pot.
     Press the pulp in the strainer to squeeze out all of the juice.
     Step 6:  Place the sauce pot over low heat.
     Simmer and reduce, till the reduction is a very thin syrup consistency.
     Step 7:  Pour the blood orange reduction into a ceramic cup.
     Allow the blood orange reduction to cool to room temperature.  There should be yield of 1 to 2 tablespoons of rich blood orange reduction.

     Potatoes Anna:
     Step 1:  Very thin slice 4 to 5 ounces of peeled russet potato.
     Step 2:  Brush the potato slices with melted unsalted butter.
     Lightly season with sea salt and white pepper.
     Step 3:  Brush a piece of parchment with melted unsalted butter and place it on a small roasting pan.
     Place a 3 1/2" ring mold on the pan.
     Layer the buttered potato slices in the ring mold.
     Remove the ring mold.
     Step 4:  Bake in a 350ºF oven, till the Potatoes Anna become a golden brown color.
     Keep the Potatoes Anna warm on a stove top.
   
     Modified Classic Hollandaise:
     This recipe yields about 1 3/4 cups of sauce!  
     •Hollandaise is always made to order or it is made within 45 minutes of the serving time.  Making hollandaise ahead of time can result in a severe health code violation penalties.  
     •This hollandaise making technique may seem impossible, but it is very easy to master.  A large digital candy thermometer is best for making this sauce.  The temperatures have to be read quickly, while stirring with a whisk.  If you can judge temperatures by eye, skip the thermometer.
     •You cannot stop stirring once the sauce is started, or the sauce will seize, like scrambled eggs!
     •This hollandaise recipe originates in the 1950's and it has many extra ingredients, when compared to the Escoffier style classic hollandaise mother sauce recipe, which is the standard in the industry.  
     Step 1:  Place the yolks from 2 large eggs in a medium/small size mixing bowl.
     Add 1 tablespoon of dijon mustard.
     Add 1/2 teaspoon of worcestershire sauce.
     Add 1/2 tablespoon of cayenne pepper sauce.
     Add 1/2 tablespoon of white wine vinegar.
     Add 1 tablespoon of lemon juice.
     Add sea salt and white pepper.  (4 pinches is about right)
     Step 2:  Cut 8 ounces of chilled unsalted butter into 1/2" cube shaped pieces.
     Add the butter cubes.
     Step 3:  Attach a digital candy thermometer to the mixing bowl, so the probe tip is below the level of the ingredients and so it is not touching the bowl.
     Step 4:  Place a medium size sauce pot over medium high heat.
     Add 3" or 4" of water.
     *This is the double boiler set up.  The water in the pot should not touch the bottom of the mixing bowl.  
     Bring the water to a boil.
     Reduce the temperature to medium low/low heat.
     Step 5:  Place the mixing bowl with the hollandaise ingredients on top of the sauce pot to create a double boiler.
     Immediately start gently stirring with a long handle whisk.
     Constantly stir with a whisk, till the butter melts and the hollandaise becomes a liquid state.
     Constantly stir, till the hollandaise reaches a temperature of 145ºF.  
     *At 145º, the hollandaise will emulsify and it will look like a sauce!
     Step 6:  Constantly stir till the thermometer reaches 165ºF.
     *Keep an eye on the thermometer, because the temperature will reach 180º quickly!  Keep in mind that if the hollandaise goes over 185ºF, the emulsion will separate and the sauce will be kaput!
     Constantly gently stir till the temperature reaches 179ºF to 180ºF.
     Step 7:  Immediately remove the mixing bowl from the double boiler.
     Step 8:  Place the mixing bowl on a counter top.
     Constantly stir, so the hollandaise cools evenly.
     Stir till the temperature reaches 135ºF.
     Step 9:  Place the hollandaise sauce in a ceramic container.
     Place the ceramic container in a 125º to 130º bain marie.
     Stir occasionally.
     Add a few drops of water if the hollandaise becomes too thick.
     *Serve the hollandaise within 45 minutes.

     Sauce Maltaise:
     Add enough of the blood orange reduction to the hollandaise sauce to give the sauce a blood orange flavor.  (About 1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons.  Save any extra blood orange reduction!) 
     Keep the sauce maltaise in the ceramic container, in a 125º to 130º bain marie. 
     Serve within 45 minutes of when the original hollandaise sauce was made.
     Stir occasionally.

     Braised Dandelion Greens:
     Step 1:  Heat a sauté pan over medium/medium low heat.
     Add 1 tablespoon of unsalted butter.
     Add 1 thin sliced garlic clove.
     Sauté till the garlic is a golden color.
     Step 2:  Add about 15 large whole dandelion leaves that have the stems trimmed off.  (The leaves should be about 10" in length.)
     Saute till the dandelion greens start to wilt.
     Step 3:  Add 3/4 cup of light vegetable stock.
     Add sea salt and white pepper.
     Add 1/4 teaspoon of sugar.
     Add 1/2 teaspoon of white wine vinegar.
     Add 1 tablespoon of diced red bell pepper.
     Step 4:  Reduce the temperature to low heat.
     Simmer and reduce, till most of the liquid evaporates.
     Remove the pan from the heat.
     Reheat the braised dandelion greens when the entrée is ready to be plated.

     Heirloom Red Carrots:
     Step 1:  Peel 2 thin heirloom red carrots and trim the green tops.
     Blanch the carrots in boiling salted water, till they are halfway cooked.
     Step 2:  Place the carrots in a sauté pan.
     Add 2 ounces of water.
     Add 1 teaspoon of unsalted butter.
     Add sea salt and white pepper.
     Step 3:  Set the pan aside.
     Heat the carrots over medium low heat, when the entrée is ready to be plated.

     Blood Orange Cog Wheel Garnish:
     Use a channeling tool to cut evenly spaced grooves from top to bottom on a blood orange.
     Cut 3 thin cog wheel slices.
     Remove any seeds.
     Keep the garnish chilled till it is needed.

     Petite Roulades of Sole Filet and Salmon Mousseline:
     Step 1:  Place the petite sole and salmon mousseline roulades on a small broiler pan.
     Brush the roulades with melted unsalted butter.
     Sprinkle 1/2 teaspoon of lemon juice over the roulades.
     Add 1 ounce of dry white wine to the pan.
     Lightly season with sea salt and white pepper.
     Step 2:  Roast the roulades in a 325ºF oven, till the sole and salmon mousseline is fully cooked.  (The center temperature should be 165º for 15 seconds.)
     Step 3:  Let the roulades rest for 1 minutes.
     Snip the butcher's twine trusses with kitchen shears and remove the string.
     Keep the roulades warm on a stove top.

     Petite Roulades of Sole Filet and Salmon Mousseline with Sauce Maltaise ~ Pommes Anna and Braised Dandelion Greens:
     *Any choice of potato or vegetable that is preferred can be served with this entree.  The vegetables in the pictures are suggested, but not required.  Start heating the vegetables when the roulades are almost done roasting. 
     Place arrange the vegetables on the back half of a large plate so they look nice.
     Spoon a generous portion of sauce maltaise on the plate as a bed for the roulades.
     Evenly space the 3 cog wheel slices of blood orange on the sauce maltaise.
     Place 1 Roulad of Petite Sole Filet and Salmon Mousseline on each blood orange slice.
     Spoon a little bit of the sauce maltaise over the back half of each roulade.
     Spoon a few drops of any extra blood orange reduction over the back half of each roulade. 

     This is a very nice tasting café style seafood entrée!