Thursday, July 16, 2015

New York Strip Steak Poivrade

     A Classic Sauce For Wild Game And Beef!
     Sauce Poivrade is classic French sauce that was originally created for strong tasting wild game meats like boar or venison.  Sauce Poivrade is made with a rich dark Demi Glace.  Cider Vinegar and black pepper are the key flavors of this sauce.  The combination of vinegar and black pepper historically is used to mellow the flavor of strong tasting meat.
     There are three classic versions of Poivrade Sauce.  One version is strictly for wild game and it is a little more acidic than the other two versions.  Wild game can be braised in the acidic Poivrade Sauce, then the sauce can be refined before it is served.
     A second Poivrade version is for lighter flavored meats like game birds and rabbit.  A lighter Poivrade is made with reductions of Chicken Stock, Glace de Volaille along with less cider vinegar.
     The third version Poivrade is meant to be served with beef.  A little less cider vinegar is required for beef than wild game, since there is no strong wild meat flavor to mask.

     Classic Demi Glace can be used in place of Standard Demi Glace when making Poivrade for beef.  Classic Demi Glace is a perfect Sauce Espagnole that is reduced to perfection with no addition of Glace Viande.  Sauce Espagnole is made only with beef and veal bones with meat scraps, so the flavor is 100% beef.
     Standard Demi Glace is made with 50% Sauce Espagnole and 50% Glace Viande.  Classic Glace Viande is made with wild game bones & scrap meat.  Modern Glace Viande is made with any kind bones & scrap meat.  A combination of pork trotters & beef bones is the most common combination.
     As one can imagine, the difference in flavor of a Poivrade intended for a beef entrée is subtle, when either of the two types of Demi Glace are used.

     Steak Poivrade is not the same as Steak Au Poivre.  Steak Au Poivre is a recipe that falls into the chef's interpretation category.  Steak Au Poivre is not quite as refined as Steak Poivrade.  Steak Au Poivre is a pan seared black pepper crusted steak with a red wine and cognac flavored Glace Viande reduction that can have a monte au beurre finish.  The black pepper flavor is very strong and coarse in a Steak au Poivre recipe.
     Steak Poivrade has a more refined black pepper flavor.  The black pepper cannot be added to the sauce too early or too late.  There is a specific moment when the black pepper can be added to Poivrade Sauce, so a peak flavor is achieved.

     Glace Viandé:
     Follow the link to the recipe in this website.
     • Glacé Viande

     Demi Glace:
     Follow the link to the recipe in this website.

     Duplex Parsnip Scallion Russet Crème Potato & Mashed Sweet Potato:
     This recipe yields 3 or 4 portions.  
     Step 1:  Heat a small sauté pan over medium heat.
     Add 1/4 cup of thick sliced peeled parsnip.
     Add just enough water to cover the parsnips.
     Gently boil till the water evaporates.
     Step 2:  Reduce the temperature to low heat.
     Add 1 tablespoon of unsalted butter.
     Gently sauté the parsnips, till golden highlights appear and the parsnips become tender enough to mash.
     Keep the soft parsnips warm on a stove top.
     Step 3:  Boil a 7 ounce peeled russet potato in a pot of water over high heat.
     Boil an 8 ounce whole unpeeled sweet potato in a second pot of water over high heat.
     Cook the potatoes till they are soft enough to mash.
     Drain the water off of the soft cooked potatoes in both pots when they are ready.
     Step 4:  Add the braised parsnips to the russet potato.
     Add 2 tablespoons of cream.
     Add 1 tablespoon of softened unsalted butter.
     Add sea salt and white pepper to taste.
     Mash and whisk the parsnip and russet potatoes, till it is smooth and creamy.
     Add 1 1/2 tablespoons of thin sliced green scallion tops while stirring.
     Spoon the parsnip scallion crème potato into a star tipped pastry bag.
     Keep the Parsnip Scallion Russet Crème Potato warm in a container placed in a 135ºF bain marie.
     Step 5:  Hold the sweet potato with a pastry towel.
     Use the back of a paring knife to peel off the skin.
     Place the sweet potato in a mixing bowl.
     Add 1/2 tablespoon of softened unsalted butter.
     Add 1/2 tablespoon of cream.
     Add 1 pinch of sea salt and white pepper.
     Add 2 teaspoons of brown sugar.
     Thoroughly mash the sweet potato till it is very smooth.  (Add a few drops more butter or cream if necessary.  The moisture content of sweet potatoes do vary.)
     Load the mashed sweet potato into a pastry bag that does not have a star tip attached.
     Step 6:  Flatten the Russet Potato Pastry Bag on a counter top.  (The one with the star tip.)
     Pull the bag free from the mashed potato, so a pocket forms on the length of the bag.
     Carefully slide the un-tipped Sweet Potato Pastry Bag into the empty pocket.
     Twist the open end of the pastry bags closed as one.
     Keep the duplex pastry bag of potatoes warm in a container placed in a 135ºF bain marie.
     *Now the two pastry bags share one star tip!  When both pastry bags are squeezed together as one, both colors of potato will come out of the tip at the same time.  

     Poivrade Sauce:
     This recipe yields 2 generous portions of sauce.  (About 5 ounces)
     Step 1:  Heat a sauce pot over medium heat.
     Add 1 tablespoon of unsalted butter.
     Add 2 tablespoons of finely chopped onion.
     Add 2 tablespoons of finely chopped carrot.
     Add 3 tablespoons of chopped mushroom peelings and scraps.
     Stir and sauté till the aromatic vegetables are lightly caramelized.
     Step 2:  Add 1/2 teaspoon of chopped garlic.
     Briefly sauté till the garlic is aromatic.
     Step 3:  Reduce the temperature to very low heat.
     Add 3 1/2 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar.
     Add 2/3 cup of demi glace.
     Add 1/2 cup of beef stock.
     Add 1/2 cup of water.
     Add 1 pinch of sea salt.
     Slowly simmer and reduce the sauce till it is a very thin consistency.
     Step 4:  Add 1 1/2 teaspoons of coarsely crushed black peppercorns.
     Simmer and reduce till the sauce is a thin consistency that can easily glaze a spoon.
     Step 5:  Add 1 teaspoon of unsalted butter while stirring.
     Step 6:  Pour the poivrade sauce through a fine mesh strainer into a ceramic bowl.
     Add 5 or 6 slices of shaved black truffle.  (This is traditional, but it is an optional step because truffles are rarely available in food markets.)
     Keep the sauce warm in a 135ºF bain marie.  Serve within 15 minutes, while the pepper flavor is at a peak.  

     NY Strip Steak:
     This recipe describes 1 entrée.
     Step 1:  Trim a dry aged 14 ounce USDA Prime Grade New York Strip Steak of all fat and gristle, so the steak is very lean.

     Season the steak with sea salt only.
     Step 2:  Heat a sauté pan over medium/medium high heat.
     Add 2 1/2 tablespoons of clarified unsalted butter.
     Add the prepared NY strip steak.
     Flip the steak a few times, so it cooks evenly.
     Cook the steak to the preferred finish temperature.  (Medium Rare to Medium is best for this recipe.)
     Step 3:  Set the steak on a wire screen roasting rack over a drip pan and allow it to rest for 1 minute.

     New York Strip Steak Poivrade:
     Set the NY Strip Steak on a plate.
     Pipe the Duplex Parsnip Scallion Russet Crème Potato & Mashed Sweet Potato on the plate.
     Place vegetables and mushrooms of your choice on the plate.
     Pour a generous portion of Poivrade Sauce over the steak.

     I finally got around to transferring this classic recipe from the old food blog website.  Quite a few refinements were made to the measurements and text.  This is a superb tasting steak entrée!

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